This one begins in Paramaribo with all the excitement, sights and sounds of Suriname’s unique capital city.  We were part of a tour group with Rudy Baldew Bus Companygoing on the Myrysji overnight tour to Galibi. The trip was incredible, and the service was even more than we expected. The group met outside Paramaribo’s classy Torarica hotel, and before we knew it everybody’s bags were on board and we were ready to roll.

With this bus company we knew we were in experienced and competent hands -- and that’s a good thing on the road to Albina! If you’ve never taken the ride to the far eastern edge of Suriname, it’s an adventure in itself.  For one thing, most of the road is filled with potholes and bumps. Mike, our driver, had been driving that route every day for 9 years so he knew exactly how to keep us comfortably in our seats.  Then too, they knew just where to take us for delicious sandwiches, coffee and tea. And our multi-lingual guide Benito grew up in Galibi, and he willingly shared a lot of insider information about the culture and history of the region.

The ride takes a few hours and gives you a chance to slow down, relax, and enjoy the scenery. As soon as we crossed the bridge out of ‘Parbo,’ the scenery changed to small towns, then to some farms, and finally to a multitude of green as tropical vegetation took over the landscape.

But the ride to Albina was only the first part of the adventure! Albina itself is a hub of activity. St. Laurent in French Guyana has two big market days weekly, and the activity back and forth across the river creates a mosaic of colors, sounds, and aromas from the boats, food, and stalls that sell a variety of items. The boat traffic that crisscrosses back and forth between Albina and St. Laurent in French Guyana is a nonstop eyeful in itself. 

Our boat trip was different though, we were going in a long, sturdy dugout canoe with an outboard motor about 1 ½ hours down river, almost to the mouth, where the Morawijne meets the Atlantic Ocean. Benito suggested we might want rain gear. He said we could get rained on, (which we didn’t) or the waves might splash up (which they sure did), but the water was warm and it was part of the fun.

While the ride was fun, the views of the river banks and the sheer size of the river were amazing! At high tide, the mangrove forests were partially submerged in the huge rivers’ brackish water. They protect the land, support wildlife and create a haven for the unbelievable biodiversity that is the Amazon Rainforest. Small homes and fishing boats dotted the shoreline.  Mile after mile, the wonders of mixed rainforest trees and plants worked their magic, and the hustle and bustle of city life was soon a distant memory.
Even so, the pace of life at Galibi slowed us down by an order of magnitude. There we could fully experience the special gifts of that tiny place on Earth. We were welcomed with a delicious local meal that included the tastiest snapper I’ve ever had.

Our village was comprised of huts and homes for about 200 Amer-Indians, who still live mostly in the traditional ways along the white sand, trees and plants typical of areas near the river.  After a quick dip in the river and a bit of rest, we headed over to what is called the Galibi ‘mini-zoo.’ But don’t think zoo, think mini-refuge for some of the most interactive and unusual animals you can find.

We were told the zookeeper was a hunter who decided he no longer would kill animals. He certainly connected well with the ones we met.  Most of the zoo inhabitants are free to roam and just live there. That includes two juvenile red Ibis. When I couldn’t find them, the zookeeper made a whistling sound and they both came on the run.

OK, roaming freely did not include the young caiman that was still learning not to bite the hand that feeds him. Nor does it include the resident (non-venomous) anaconda, although she was quite friendly and used to people. She no longer bites we were told with some pride.  For the most adventurous guys, she willingly wrapped herself around their shoulders.

Meanwhile the women were busy holding a 3-month old baby sloth. I thought nothing could possibly be cuter. But then the monkeys started interacting with us. They live freely in the trees of the zoo, and more curious than many people I’ve met, and quite at home among us homo homo sapiens.  If you want to engage with them, you won’t have to ask twice! They played with the zookeeper’s dog, the guests, the anteaters, and each other. They were amazingly gentle and even as they climbed onto our heads and shoulders, it was always a soft landing.  A huge mango tree filled with ripe mangos was at the edge of the zoo where they could easily eat their fill.  But their preference was to sit on our shoulders and eat ours.

After watching traditional dances to the beat of drums and rhythmic singing, we had another delicious meal. Later, as we sat watching the stars get bigger and brighter and the moon rise over the palm trees, listening to the rhythms of the river lapping up onto the sandy beach, I wondered how I could keep that moment and that special place in my heart. I also wondered why I had booked a round-trip ticket.

But I was comforted to know we would be back. Despite all the wonders we saw, we had not yet witnessed the most amazing adventure. Beginning in February at Galibi National Reserve, giant sea turtles rise out of the waves in the depth of night to silently lumber up the beach and make a nest for their eggs. The Leatherbacks and Greens are the two biggest turtle species, and both lay at Galibi.  For anyone willing to venture out at 2 a.m., a timeless ritual, and once in a lifetime adventure awaits.

This tour was organized by Myrysji Tours.