Rudy Baldew Bus in front of Hotel Krasnapolsky

There is a 5-hour time difference between Pacific Standard Time and Suriname and an 8-hour time difference to Europe. It’s not exactly around the corner from… well, from almost anywhere.  So why bother?

For starters the country is almost all pristine rainforest, but more on that elsewhere on the site. There’s also the capital city of Paramaribo, unique in almost every imaginable way.

If you are intrigued by contrasts, you will be captivated by Paramaribo. Bear in mind this is a small town of less than 300,000 inhabitants. In most cities that wouldn’t be cause for great diversity. Not so in Parbo. It was established in the mid 1600’s as the capital of what was then a British colony.

For a century it went back and forth between the English and the Dutch. Ultimately the Dutch thought it wise to trade this small country in the NE of South America for a small island on the Eastern Seaboard of the New World. New Amsterdam became Manhattan and Suriname became Dutch Guyana from the 1800’s until its liberation in 1975.

Architecture

Much of Parbo’s history is written into its architecture. Unfortunately a fire in 1821 destroyed 400 wooden buildings. A decade later another 46 pieces of history went up in flames, but rebuilding went on over the centuries and the buildings are, like everything else in Parbo, a historical mix.

UNESCO declared the inner city a historical site in 1972 partly because of the history written into the architecture and partly because the mix of Dutch and European architecture combined with tropical design has created a unique building form.

Ethnic diversity
Another unique aspect of Paramaribo is found in the people themselves. The city is sometimes labeled “the city of smiles” and even a short walk around town justifies the title. It is vastly more Caribbean in feel and mix than South American. People are friendly indeed, without regard to your country of origin, language, or race. And small wonder.
Diversity is the soup du jour of Paramaribo!

The population is famously mixed.  Creoles are the descendants of slaves brought over from Africa. Chinese, Hindustani and Javanese were recruited as cheap labor by the Dutch in the late 1800’s.  Together these groups comprise most of the city’s population. 

Brazilians are an increasing presence in Suriname, though less in Parbo than in the interior, where they are part of the new gold rush.  Also in the interior are the original Surinamese, the Amer-Indians, and another group, also brought as slaves from Africa. They are called Maroons and are descendants of the runaway slaves, those largely responsible for finally bringing an end to the era of slavery. While they are mainly in the interior, these groups are also part of the mix that is Parbo. As are the so-called ‘new’ Chinese, and the Dutch Surinamese, who are descendants of the plantation owners.

There’s an occasional other European, and now, increasingly Dutch interns, (currently about 3,000) and tourists. Even this long list doesn’t cover the real diversity of the population as over the centuries intermingling has created unique multi-ethnic groups. Whew!

Languages
The diversity is also reflected in the language. You won’t hear Spanish as you walk down the streets. You are far more likely to hear Dutch, the language taught at school and used for official purposes. Well, even more likely, you’ll hear the clipped tones of Sranan Tongo, the ‘lingua franca’ of Suriname. It is a language formed from a mix of Saramaccan, English, Spanish, Portuguese, French and Dutch. It’s not taught anywhere, but all Surinamese understand and speak it. The other language almost everyone in Parbo understands is English. It is taught in the schools and is popular from the many English-language TV programs.
In addition there are other languages such as Chinese, Hindu, Saramaccan, Carib and other names you are not likely to know. All in all Suriname has 15 distinct languages! 

Food
Home to so much diversity, it would be surprising if Paramaribo were not also home to international cuisine. No worries there. Each of the ethnic groups has its own flavors, aromas, drinks, fruit wines, restaurants, cuisine, and atmosphere.  You can even ignore the more well-known fast food chains that have hit town in favor of Indian or Javanese fast food! On Sundays you can also go to the Chinese market and enjoy authentic Dim Sum. Just be prepared for some unfamiliar delicacies. 
Restaurant prices vary from places Surinamese can afford to upscale Euro-level fees. That’s mostly at upscale hotels, and for European dishes.  Sundays are a quiet day and for most Parbans, a home-cooked meal day, so unlike many places Sundays are not the ideal day for eating out. A large number of restaurants are closed or close early.  If you are adventurous, try places that look pretty down-home. You are almost certain to be impressed.

Atmosphere

Rudy Baldew Bus in Paramaribo, Suriname

Of all the unusual, different, and truly unique aspects of Paramaribo the one the world can most benefit from is amazingly tolerant attitude that pervades the town. Not only are people tolerant, they are well aware of how rare it is and it is a source of national pride. Do you know anywhere else in the world that has the country’s largest Islamic mosque directly adjacent to its largest Jewish synagogue?  Apparently for many years the two buildings even shared the same security guard.

Not only do you find churches across the street from Hindu temples and mosques, but Parbo is a city where everyone from the local cab driver to service providers will mention two favorite topice – great food and general tolerance.  An equally impressive and rare feature is that all religious and ethnic groups participate in the holidays of others – All are invited to join in on the final feast of Ramadan, Christmas celebrations cross religious and ethnic barriers and everyone joins in on the Hindi spring Festival of Colors, here known as Pagua.

This year CNN mentioned Paramaribo as one of the most interesting places in the world to celebrate New Year’s Eve, or as the Surinamese view it, Old Year’s Day. It is an amazing display of everything that makes Parbo special – colors, smiles, diversity, noise, music, and generosity. Considering that it is also the day when more alcohol is consumed than any other in the year, it also displays the unmistakable Surinamese characteristic of tolerance.
Tourists are amazed that you can have literally thousands of people in the street enjoying the brew, and yet there are no fights, no pushing or shouting. Parbans would say: “People fight on Old Year’s Day? Impossible! That is a time when we are all happy.” Indeed.